How to Grow Arugula: Fast, Peppery Greens for Beds and Pots
How to grow arugula from seed in the garden or on the patio: when to sow, growing arugula in containers, how to prevent arugula bolting, when to harvest arugula for the best flavor, and why wild arugula is a great perennial alternative.
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Arugula, also called rocket or roquette, is one of the fastest and easiest greens you can grow. In cool weather, you can pick your first peppery leaves just a few weeks after sowing, and one small bed or pot keeps you in salad for weeks. It is a perfect crop for beginners, for small patios and for anyone who wants fresh greens in spring and fall.
This guide explains how to grow arugula step by step. You will learn when and how to sow, how far apart to space plants, how to succeed with growing arugula in containers, how to delay arugula bolting in warm weather, when to harvest arugula for the best taste, and how wild arugula differs from the common salad type.
Why Grow Arugula?
- Fast: Illinois Extension notes that arugula can be ready about 20 days after seeding in summer and 30 to 40 days in spring and fall.
- Cold hardy: Illinois Extension notes that most types survive 22°F, and Oregon State notes that arugula withstands light frosts.
- Small-space friendly: it grows well in beds, pots and window boxes.
- Cut-and-come-again: Oregon State notes that continuous cutting of young leaves stimulates new leaf production.
- Flavorful: a peppery, nutty taste that lifts salads, pizzas, pasta and sandwiches.
Salad Arugula vs. Wild Arugula
Two different plants are sold as arugula:
| Salad arugula (Eruca vesicaria, also listed as Eruca sativa) | Wild arugula (Diplotaxis tenuifolia) | |
|---|---|---|
| Life cycle | Annual | Perennial, according to NC State |
| Leaves | Broad, lobed, tender | Narrow and deeply divided (NC State) |
| Flavor | Peppery and nutty | Sharper and more intense |
| Growth | Very fast | Slower to start, then long-lived |
| Heat tolerance | Bolts quickly in heat | More heat tolerant (NC State) |
| Best for | Quick spring and fall crops | A permanent pot or bed with leaves to pick for months |
If arugula bolting is a constant problem in your summers, wild arugula is a great addition. The University of Delaware lists ‘Rocket Wild Roma’ with about 35 days to harvest.
When to Plant Arugula
| Season | When to sow | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Spring | As soon as the soil can be worked; the University of Delaware gives mid-March to early May for its region | Oregon State recommends early spring |
| Summer | Possible, but quick to bolt | Use partial shade and harvest young |
| Late summer to fall | Sow in late summer and early fall | Illinois Extension notes fall crops have almost no flea beetle problems |
| Winter | In mild climates, or under cover | Arugula tolerates light frost |
Illinois Extension recommends direct sowing from early spring to early fall. Oregon State notes that you can also start transplants in modular trays about four weeks before you need them.
How to Grow Arugula from Seed
Arugula is almost always grown from seed sown directly where it will grow. Here is how to grow arugula from seed step by step:
The old version of this page recommended a fixed amount of 0.2 grams of seed and said the first harvest takes 50 days. In practice, you sow thinly and can start picking young leaves after about 3 to 6 weeks, depending on the season.
Sun, Soil and Spacing
| Need | Recommendation | Source |
|---|---|---|
| Sun | Full sun to partial shade; partial shade helps in hot climates | NC State |
| Soil | Well-drained; arugula can develop root rot in heavy clay or poorly drained soil | Illinois Extension |
| pH | 6.0 to 7.0 | University of Delaware |
| Spacing | About 6 inches between plants (University of Delaware); 6 to 9 inches in rows 12 to 15 inches apart (Oregon State) | University of Delaware, Oregon State |
| Temperature | Cool weather; tolerates light frost | Oregon State, Illinois Extension |
Raised beds warm up early in spring and drain well, which arugula loves. See how to build a raised garden bed.
Growing Arugula in Containers
Growing arugula in containers is ideal for patios, balconies and kitchen windowsills. NC State gives a minimum of a 3-gallon pot with 4 to 6 inches of soil depth.
| Container tip | Details |
|---|---|
| Size | At least 3 gallons; wide, shallow pots and window boxes work well |
| Drainage | Drainage holes are essential to prevent root rot |
| Mix | Good-quality potting mix with some compost |
| Sowing | Sow thinly across the surface; thin to a few inches apart for baby leaves |
| Light | Full sun in spring and fall; light afternoon shade in warm weather |
| Watering | Keep the mix evenly moist; pots dry out quickly |
| Succession | Use two or three pots and sow them a couple of weeks apart |
Because pots can be moved, growing arugula in containers also makes it easier to delay bolting: move them into light shade on hot days. For more container ideas, see our container gardening guide and windowsill vegetable garden guide.
Watering and Feeding Arugula
- Keep the soil evenly moist. Oregon State notes that a crop may need a total of 8 to 12 inches of water over the season.
- Water at the base in the morning; a gentle shower nozzle prevents seeds and seedlings from washing away.
- Mulch lightly between rows to keep the soil cool and moist.
- Arugula needs only modest feeding: compost at planting is usually enough in garden beds. In pots, a light liquid feed every few weeks helps.
- Dry, stressed plants bolt faster and taste hotter.
See our garden hose nozzle guide and how often to water your vegetable garden.
Arugula Bolting: Why It Happens and How to Delay It
Illinois Extension explains that summer heat and long days trigger arugula to flower, which is known as bolting. NC State notes that bolting changes the flavor and stops leaf growth. You cannot stop arugula bolting completely, but you can delay it:
| Tip | Why it helps |
|---|---|
| Sow in spring and late summer to fall | Avoids the hottest, longest days |
| Give afternoon shade in warm weather | Keeps plants cooler (NC State) |
| Water evenly | Drought stress speeds up bolting |
| Harvest young and often | Leaves are best before plants start to flower |
| Sow small batches often | New plants replace bolting ones |
| Try wild arugula | More heat tolerant than salad arugula |
Once plants bolt, the flowers are edible. NC State describes them as four-petaled yellow, cream or white flowers. Illinois Extension notes they concentrate the peppery flavor. Many gardeners let a few plants flower for pollinators and then pull them.
When to Harvest Arugula
Knowing when to harvest arugula is the key to the best flavor. Young leaves are mild and tender; older leaves are hotter and tougher.
| Stage | When | Flavor |
|---|---|---|
| Baby leaves | From about 3 weeks after sowing, when leaves are 2 to 3 inches long | Mild, tender |
| Full-size leaves | About 30 to 40 days in spring and fall (Illinois Extension); 40 to 50 days to maturity (Oregon State) | Peppery |
| Old leaves or flowering plants | After bolting starts | Hot, often bitter and tough |
- Cut leaves with scissors or a sharp knife, as Illinois Extension advises, and harvest regrowth as it appears.
- Pick the outer leaves and let the center keep growing, or cut the whole plant about an inch above the soil.
- Oregon State notes that a strong taste and toughness develop if harvest is delayed.
- Harvest in the morning, when leaves are crisp, and refrigerate them right away.
Succession Sowing for a Steady Supply
Because arugula grows so fast, the best way to have a constant supply is to sow small amounts often:
| Week | Action |
|---|---|
| Week 0 | Sow the first row or pot |
| Week 2 to 3 | Sow the second batch |
| Week 4 to 6 | Start harvesting the first batch; sow a third |
| Week 6 to 8 | First batch starts to bolt; pull it and resow |
In midsummer, pause sowing in hot climates and start again in late summer for a fall crop.
Pests and Problems
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Small round holes in leaves | Flea beetles (Illinois Extension) | Cover with floating row covers; grow in fall, when pressure is low |
| Plants flower early | Heat, long days, drought | Shade, water evenly, resow |
| Yellow, rotting plants | Waterlogged soil (root rot) | Improve drainage; use raised beds or pots |
| Holes and slime trails | Slugs and snails | See our guide to slugs on plants |
| Sticky leaves, small insects | Aphids | Spray off with water; check undersides |
Illinois Extension notes that spring and summer arugula has the most flea beetle pressure, while fall-grown arugula has almost no problems. The University of Delaware adds that pests usually cause only minor damage. See our guide to slugs on plants and garden insects guide.
Growing Arugula Indoors and as Microgreens
Arugula is one of the easiest greens to grow indoors, as long as it gets enough light:
| Option | How | Harvest |
|---|---|---|
| Sunny windowsill | A shallow pot or window box in a south- or west-facing window | Baby leaves in about 3 to 4 weeks |
| Under a grow light | Keep the light a few inches above the plants for 12 to 16 hours a day | Steady growth, even in winter |
| Microgreens | Sow thickly on moist mix in a shallow tray | Cut at 1 to 2 inches tall, often within two weeks |
| Wild arugula in a pot | A deeper pot on a bright windowsill | Pick leaves for months |
Indoors, keep the mix evenly moist, turn the pot regularly and harvest young; warm, dry rooms make arugula bolting more likely. For more ideas, see our guides on how to grow herbs indoors and vegetable gardening on your windowsill. These tips follow widely accepted growing practice.
How to Grow Arugula: 6 Common Mistakes
| Mistake | Why it hurts | Better approach |
|---|---|---|
| Sowing in midsummer | Fast bolting, hot leaves | Sow in spring and late summer to fall |
| Sowing too thickly | Crowded, weak plants | Sow thinly and thin to about 6 inches |
| Letting soil dry out | Bitter leaves and early bolting | Water evenly; mulch |
| Harvesting too late | Tough, hot leaves | Pick young and often |
| Heavy, wet soil | Root rot | Use raised beds or containers |
| Sowing everything at once | Feast, then famine | Sow small batches every 2 to 3 weeks |
Avoid these and you already know most of what matters about how to grow arugula successfully.
What You Need
| Item | Why it helps | More information |
|---|---|---|
| Arugula seeds | Salad arugula for speed; wild arugula for heat tolerance | Sow every 2 to 3 weeks |
| Pots or window boxes (3 gallons or more) | Growing arugula in containers | Drainage holes essential |
| Hose with gentle shower nozzle | Waters seeds without washing them away | See our garden hose nozzle guide |
| Scissors or snips | Clean cut-and-come-again harvests | See our gardening tool sets guide |
| Floating row cover | Keeps flea beetles off | Install at sowing |
| Kneeling pad | Comfortable sowing and harvesting | See our kneeling pad guide |
| Gardening gloves | Clean hands when sowing and weeding | See our gardening gloves guide |
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I grow arugula?
Sow seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep in early spring or late summer, in well-drained soil and full sun to partial shade. Thin to about 6 inches, keep the soil moist and harvest young leaves after 3 to 6 weeks.
How long does arugula take to grow?
About 20 days in summer and 30 to 40 days in spring and fall, according to Illinois Extension. Baby leaves can be picked even earlier.
When should I harvest arugula?
Harvest when leaves are 2 to 4 inches long and before the plant flowers. Young leaves are milder and more tender.
Does arugula grow back after cutting?
Yes. Cut the outer leaves or cut the plant about an inch above the soil, and it will regrow until it starts to bolt.
Can I grow arugula in pots?
Yes. Growing arugula in containers works very well. Use a pot of at least 3 gallons with 4 to 6 inches of soil depth and drainage holes.
Why is my arugula bolting?
Heat, long days and dry soil trigger arugula bolting. Sow in cooler seasons, provide afternoon shade and water evenly.
Can I eat arugula after it flowers?
Yes. The flowers are edible, and leaves can still be eaten, but they become hotter and tougher.
What is wild arugula?
Wild arugula (Diplotaxis tenuifolia) is a perennial with narrow, deeply divided leaves and a sharper taste. It is more heat tolerant than salad arugula.
Does arugula need full sun?
It grows in full sun to partial shade. In hot weather, partial shade helps delay bolting.
Can arugula survive frost?
Yes. Most types survive temperatures down to about 22°F, according to Illinois Extension.
What is eating holes in my arugula?
Usually flea beetles. Floating row covers keep them off, and fall crops have far fewer problems.
How often should I water arugula?
Keep the soil evenly moist. Pots may need water daily in warm weather; beds usually need watering when the top inch is dry.
Can I grow arugula indoors?
Yes. Grow it in a shallow pot on a sunny windowsill or under a grow light, keep the mix moist and harvest young leaves after about three to four weeks.
Is arugula a perennial?
Salad arugula is an annual that flowers and dies in its first year. Wild arugula (Diplotaxis tenuifolia) is a perennial, according to NC State.
Why does my arugula taste bitter?
Leaves get hotter and more bitter as plants age, in hot weather and under drought stress. Harvest young and keep plants watered.
Final Thoughts
Now you know how to grow arugula: sow in the cool seasons, keep the soil evenly moist and cut leaves young and often. Growing arugula in containers is just as easy as growing it in beds, and it lets you move plants into shade on hot days.
Arugula bolting is natural in summer heat, but small, regular sowings and a pot of wild arugula keep the harvest going. Remember when to harvest arugula, young for mild leaves and before flowering for the best flavor, and you will have fresh, peppery greens for months.
Sources: Oregon State University: arugula production guide; University of Illinois Extension: arugula, new trendy green of the old world; University of Delaware Cooperative Extension: arugula, grow your own; NC State Extension: arugula plant profile.
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