When Are Potatoes Ready to Harvest? Signs, Timing and Storage
When are potatoes ready to harvest? How to recognize new and mature potatoes, how to harvest potatoes without damage, harvesting new potatoes early, curing potatoes for storage and how to store potatoes so they keep for months.
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Digging potatoes feels like a treasure hunt: you never know exactly what is under the soil until you lift the first plant. But timing matters. Dig too early and you get small tubers with thin skins that do not keep; dig too late or carelessly and you risk rot, pests and damaged potatoes.
This guide answers the question “when are potatoes ready to harvest?” with clear signs for both new and mature potatoes. You will learn how to harvest potatoes without bruising them, when harvesting new potatoes makes sense, why curing potatoes is so important, and how to store potatoes so they stay firm and tasty for months.
New Potatoes vs. Mature Potatoes
| New potatoes | Mature (storage) potatoes | |
|---|---|---|
| When | About 6 to 8 weeks after planting, usually once the plants flower | After the vines have died back |
| Size | Small, often 1 to 2 inches | Full size for the variety |
| Skin | Thin and delicate; rubs off easily | Firm, set skin |
| Storage | Do not store well; use within days | Can keep for months when cured and stored well |
| Best for | Boiling, roasting whole, salads | Baking, mashing, long-term storage |
The University of Maryland Extension notes that new potatoes can be harvested 6 to 8 weeks after planting, usually after the plants have flowered, and that storage potatoes keep developing through summer.
When Are Potatoes Ready to Harvest? 7 Signs to Watch
Oregon State University Extension gives a simple test: if the skin rubs off easily, wait another week before harvesting. Iowa State University adds that you should wait several more days if the skins still rub off.
How Long Until Potatoes Are Ready?
| Variety group | Approximate days from planting | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Early varieties | About 70 to 90 days | Often harvested as new potatoes |
| Midseason varieties | About 90 to 110 days | Good all-round types |
| Late varieties | About 110 to 120 days or more | Best for storage, such as many russets |
The University of Maryland gives 90 to 120 days for most potatoes. Weather, soil and planting date all affect timing, which is why the plant itself is the best guide to when potatoes are ready to harvest.
Harvesting New Potatoes
Harvesting new potatoes is one of the treats of early summer. Iowa State University suggests digging when plants are still green and tubers are more than 1 inch in diameter.
- Gently feel around the base of the plant with your hand and take a few tubers, leaving the plant in place to keep growing.
- Or lift a whole plant with a fork if you want a bigger harvest at once.
- Use new potatoes within a few days; Iowa State notes they do not store well.
- Do not wash them until just before cooking.
Harvesting new potatoes from the edge of a plant lets you enjoy an early taste while the rest of the crop keeps growing for storage.
Harvesting Mature Potatoes for Storage
- Oregon State recommends reducing watering in mid-August and letting the vines die completely before digging.
- Wait about two weeks after the vines die so the skins can toughen; the University of Maryland mentions allowing about two weeks for skins to thicken.
- Check the skins with the rub test before you dig the whole row.
- Harvest on a dry day, when the soil is not wet, as the University of Maryland advises.
- Dig before the ground freezes in fall.
How to Harvest Potatoes Without Damage
Knowing how to harvest potatoes carefully makes a big difference in how long they keep. Damaged potatoes should be used first, because they rot quickly in storage.
The University of Maryland advises digging gently around the potatoes with a garden fork to avoid bruising or spearing tubers, and keeping freshly dug potatoes out of the light. A sturdy fork, gloves and a kneeling pad make the job much easier; see our gardening tool sets guide, gardening gloves guide and kneeling pad guide.
Curing Potatoes
Curing potatoes toughens the skin and heals small wounds, which greatly extends storage life. Iowa State University recommends curing at 50 to 60°F and high humidity (85 to 90 percent) for about two weeks; Oregon State mentions 7 to 10 days in a dark, well-ventilated place.
| Step | How |
|---|---|
| Brush off soil | Do not wash potatoes before curing; brush off loose soil once dry |
| Sort | Set aside damaged or cut potatoes to eat first |
| Spread out | Place in a single layer in boxes, crates or on newspaper |
| Dark and humid | A cool, dark garage, basement or shed; cover with a cloth to block light |
| Wait | One to two weeks, until the skins are firm |
How to Store Potatoes
How to store potatoes so they last: Iowa State University recommends about 40°F with 90 to 95 percent humidity in the dark. Oregon State gives 40 to 46°F and notes that mature, late-season varieties can keep 7 to 8 months under ideal conditions, but only 2 to 3 months above 46°F.
| Storage factor | Best practice |
|---|---|
| Temperature | About 40 to 46°F; avoid below 38°F |
| Humidity | High, but no condensation; use perforated bags, crates or boxes |
| Light | Complete darkness |
| Airflow | Ventilated containers, not sealed plastic |
| Check | Remove soft or rotting potatoes every few weeks |
Iowa State explains that potatoes stored below 40°F become sweet, because starch turns into sugar. Leaving them at room temperature for a few days before cooking restores much of their normal flavor.
Green and Sprouted Potatoes
- Green potatoes: light causes greening, which can come with solanine, a natural toxin. The University of Maryland advises cutting out and discarding green parts; Oregon State advises discarding potatoes with extensive greening.
- Prevent greening: hill soil over the tubers while they grow, as the University of Maryland recommends, and keep harvested potatoes in the dark.
- Sprouted potatoes: remove sprouts and eyes; firm potatoes are usually still fine to eat, but discard potatoes that are shriveled, soft or very green.
When Are Potatoes Ready to Harvest in Your Region?
The answer to when are potatoes ready to harvest also depends on your climate and planting date:
| Situation | Typical planting | Typical harvest |
|---|---|---|
| Cold northern climates | Mid to late spring | New potatoes in midsummer; storage potatoes in late summer to early fall |
| Mild climates | Early spring | New potatoes in early summer; main crop in mid to late summer |
| Hot southern climates | Late winter, sometimes again in late summer | Late spring for the spring crop; fall for a second crop |
In hot regions, harvest before summer heat makes the soil too warm, because tubers stop growing and quality drops in very hot soil. Wherever you garden, the plant signs in this guide remain the most reliable way to decide when potatoes are ready to harvest.
Harvesting Potatoes from Containers and Grow Bags
Potatoes grown in containers or grow bags are easy to harvest: simply tip the container onto a tarp and sort through the potting mix. For new potatoes, reach in from the side or top and take a few tubers from a still-growing plant.
Container potatoes dry out faster than those in the ground, so keep watering until the vines start to die back. See our guide to container gardening for pot sizes and potting mix.
What If Your Potatoes Never Flower?
Not all potato plants flower, and some drop their flowers quickly in heat. That does not mean there are no tubers. If your plants do not flower:
- Count the days since planting and compare them with the days to maturity on the label.
- Watch for yellowing and dying foliage as the main sign of maturity.
- Carefully feel around the base of one plant for small tubers about 8 weeks after planting.
- Do a test dig of one plant before harvesting the whole row; it shows you how to harvest potatoes from the rest at the right moment.
Flowering is a helpful sign for harvesting new potatoes, but the vines and the skin test are what tell you when potatoes are ready to harvest for storage.
How to Get a Bigger Potato Harvest Next Year
| Tip | Why it helps |
|---|---|
| Plant certified seed potatoes | Fewer diseases and stronger plants |
| Choose full sun | Potatoes need sun to fill out their tubers |
| Hill the plants | Protects tubers from light and gives more room to form |
| Water evenly | Prevents hollow, cracked or knobby tubers |
| Rotate crops | Reduces soil-borne diseases and pests |
| Use loose, rich soil | Tubers grow larger and more evenly in loose soil; raised beds help |
A bigger crop also means more to store, so plan your space for curing potatoes and learn how to store potatoes before harvest day. See how to build a raised garden bed for loose, well-drained soil, and how often to water your vegetable garden for watering advice.
Problems You May Find at Harvest
| Problem | Likely cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Small potatoes | Harvested early, dry summer or too much shade | Use as new potatoes; water evenly next season |
| Green patches | Tubers exposed to light | Cut away green parts; hill plants better next year |
| Rough, scabby skin | Common scab | Peel and eat; the University of Maryland links scab to soil conditions |
| Holes or tunnels | Wireworms or other soil pests | Cut out damage; rotate crops |
| Soft, rotting potatoes | Wet soil, damage or disease | Discard; harvest in dry conditions |
| Hollow center | Uneven growth due to irregular watering | Still edible; water consistently next year |
Even watering prevents many potato problems; see how often to water your vegetable garden. For pests such as the Colorado potato beetle, see our garden insects guide.
After the Harvest
- Remove all plant debris and stray tubers, which can carry disease into next year.
- Do not plant potatoes, tomatoes, peppers or eggplant in the same spot for a few years; see what grows well with tomatoes for crop rotation tips.
- Add compost to the bed or sow a cover crop for winter.
- Clean and dry your tools before storing them.
For more fall tasks, see our guide to winterizing your garden.
Tools for Harvesting Potatoes
| Tool | Why it helps | More information |
|---|---|---|
| Garden fork | Lifts potatoes with less damage than a spade | See our gardening tool sets guide |
| Gardening gloves | Protect hands while sorting through soil | See our gardening gloves guide |
| Kneeling pad | Comfortable searching through loosened soil | See our kneeling pad guide |
| Crates or ventilated boxes | Curing and storage | Choose wood or plastic crates with air gaps |
| Hose with nozzle | Watering potatoes until the vines start to die back | See our garden hose nozzle guide |
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I harvest potatoes before they flower?
Yes, but the tubers will be very small. For new potatoes, wait until about 6 to 8 weeks after planting; for storage potatoes, wait until the vines die back.
Do potato plants have to flower before harvest?
No. Some varieties rarely flower. Use the days to maturity, the yellowing foliage and a test dig to decide when potatoes are ready to harvest.
When are potatoes ready to harvest?
New potatoes are ready about 6 to 8 weeks after planting, usually once the plants flower. Storage potatoes are ready after the vines have died back and the skins no longer rub off easily.
How do I know if potatoes are ready without digging?
Watch the plants: flowering means new potatoes are forming, and yellowing, dying vines mean the tubers are maturing. To be sure, dig up one plant as a test.
How long after the plant dies should I harvest potatoes?
Wait about two weeks after the vines die, so the skins can set. Check with the rub test before digging the whole row.
Can I leave potatoes in the ground too long?
For a few weeks, yes, but leaving them too long in wet soil or into hard frost increases rot and pest damage. Harvest before the ground freezes.
How do I harvest potatoes without damaging them?
Dig on a dry day, push a garden fork in about 12 inches from the plant, lift the soil gently and search by hand. Handle the tubers carefully.
Should I wash potatoes after harvesting?
No. Let them dry, brush off loose soil and cure them unwashed. Wash only just before cooking.
What is curing potatoes?
Curing means keeping freshly dug potatoes in a dark, humid place at about 50 to 60°F for one to two weeks, so the skin toughens and small wounds heal.
How do I store potatoes long term?
Store cured potatoes in the dark at about 40 to 46°F with high humidity, in ventilated crates or bags. Check them regularly for rot.
Can I store potatoes in the refrigerator?
A refrigerator is usually colder than ideal. Below about 40°F, potatoes turn sweet; leave them at room temperature for a few days before cooking to improve the flavor.
Are green potatoes safe to eat?
Cut out and discard green parts, which may contain solanine. Discard potatoes that are extensively green.
Can I eat sprouted potatoes?
Firm potatoes with small sprouts are usually fine once the sprouts and eyes are removed. Discard potatoes that are soft, shriveled or green.
Final Thoughts
Now you know when potatoes are ready to harvest: new potatoes after flowering, storage potatoes after the vines die and the skins have set. Dig carefully on a dry day, and handle the tubers gently.
Knowing how to harvest potatoes is only half the job. Curing potatoes for one to two weeks and knowing how to store potatoes in a dark, cool, humid place mean you can enjoy your own harvest for months, while harvesting new potatoes gives you an early taste in summer.
Sources: Oregon State University Extension: best practices for harvesting and storing homegrown potatoes; Iowa State University Extension: harvesting and storing potatoes; University of Maryland Extension: growing potatoes in a home garden.
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